Beauty Bullshits

Natural, organic, and bio – those are today’s catchwords, the terms that determine both professional and retail needs if it comes to cosmetics and beauty. Everyone wants natural, organic and bio, even if most people do not exactly know what those words really mean. What is worse still; even the authorities of the industry itself are only starting to pull themselves together now. They only just started to set real and transparent standards and control of classification and registration.

When we created the signature line of PANDHY’S™ under the brand name of True Delight™, my only aim was to present a line that is something else, something that represents a special approach to the market demand, a creative answer for today’s needs and trends.

All our products are handmade in our artisan laboratory in France. For me creating and making natural cosmetics is a real adventure, it is a lot of challenge and also fun. Here there is a lot of room for creativity. We’re experimenting all the time. Testing methods and technologies, always hunting for something new and original.

One of the results of our experiments and quests is the beautiful pearl line.  We created something interesting, where nothing else but the actives are closed into little beauty balls, with a special spherification technology, just for the fun of it and the highest level of purity and concentration. These are our beauty spheres, just to name maybe the most unique element of the line.

Developing and manufacturing of natural cosmetics is not easy, sometimes it is a nightmare, I can tell you.


This is the field where you can never be sure and never really know what will happen.  When we are working with organic – by organic I mean what it really means; alive-  materials and ingredients there are so many unpredictable factors that are changing by time to time, by season to season, by harvest to harvest.

The other thing that further complicates our lives is the acceptance of the clients. They want natural products, untreated ones, but they want standard and steady colors, fragrances and textures. They not tolerating the smell of certain plants they want it to be masked, but they want to have synthetic-free formulas. Some cases we have to face the fact that the market is not necessarily grown up for the real nature cosmetics.

Of course, we are strict with our rules and concepts, and make all our products as simple, as clean and as natural as possible. We solve the preservation issue with clever blending and combination of certain additives, we try to harmonize the fragrances, but our main goal is to offer the purest and most effective formulas. We know we cannot please everyone, and we do not want to do so.

We sell our products in simple and functional packaging, Using lightweight biodegradable PET jars and bottles for our professional formulas.

If it is about natural cosmetics I cannot stand not to talk about the importance of knowledge and understanding. I feel I have o warn you about the misleading, interest-driven information. We all experience the ingredient hysteria and misconceptions, about the risk of the smear campaigns, the beauty bullshits of certain environmental extremist groups, spreading their doctrine on the internet and many other forums. I find it very dangerous and indecent to scare consumers away from using cosmetics and hygiene products, and preservatives and chemicals in general.


Even if we are offering natural formulas and concepts I have to defend the chemistry as such. Chemistry has made great developments, without which we would be in big trouble in many fields of human existence.

Awareness and caution have to be moderate and rational.

Let me illustrate how scientific illiteracy and fear of chemicals work together to create unnecessary hysteria. Does anyone remember the Dihydrogen Monoxide story?


Information warns were spreading, like; “also known as hydroxyl acid, is the colorless, odorless chemical. Its shown to mutate DNA, denature proteins, disrupt cell membranes, found in a number of explosive and poisonous compounds.

It constitutes a major component of acid rain. It is fatal if inhaled, and has been found in the tumors of cancer patients. Every year, it directly causes thousands of deaths. Despite these dangers, it is not classified as toxic. It is often used as an additive in food and even baby foods, and is found in common household products ranging from shampoo to coffee etc.”

Dihydrogen monoxide, of course, is none other than water. If you watch carefully, all of these statements are factually accurate, but as shown, communication and interpretation is everything. Believe or not, hundreds and hundreds of thousand people joined and signed for the campaign against water.

This worrying public perception problem also extends to the products we purchase. For example, people are much more likely to characterize chemical products as “dangerous” than as “useful”. Even people who should clearly know better have fallen into the “chemicals are bad” trap. Science Magazine published an article stating that a process that creates fiber from milk proteins “uses no chemicals or pesticides.”

As a result, it is not surprising that a myriad of cosmetics and skincare companies have embraced the term “chemical free” when describing their products.  There are now whole websites dedicated to “chemical free” beauty regimes. Major women’s magazines have endorsed switching to a “chemical free” beauty regime.

So what exactly is a chemical? Roughly speaking, the word “chemical” is synonymous with the word “matter”. Anything that is a physical substance is a chemical. So, just from a purely factual perspective, no cosmetic or skincare product can legitimately be “chemical free”. If a company makes that claim, they are lying to you.

I know it is hard to see clearly, there are so many experts out there and they are pouring out on us their doctrines, the unquestionable information and opinion constantly, we cannot see the ominous headlines from; ”Mineral Powder Ruined Anna’s Skin”, ”Girls Are Poisoned by Make-up”, “SLS causes cancer”, “Parabens have been detected in human tumors” etc.

Years ago, a Swedish beauty magazine organized a conference for bloggers and journalists in the industry to educate them on how the human body, chemistry and cosmetics work, and how they interact and benefit each other. I think this is an extremely noble thing to do, as by educating opinion makers, we are in the long run increasing the quality of information that reaches the masses.

Finally, let me give you a piece of parting advice and finish this session with my slogan; keep calm, avoid the media frenzy, refresh school chemistry knowledge and enjoy the natural beauty! … and if someone offered you a cocktail of butanol, isoamyl alcohol, caffeine, geraniol, 3-galloyl epicatechin, and inorganic salts, it sounds ghastly, but take it, yet it is just a cup of tea.




Gertrud Borbíró